Here is the training table you'll need. Mine isn't this nice, and yours doesn't have to be. But the dimensions are in the link below and I'd suggest making it as light as you can because you'll want to move it to different locations as your training progresses.
This guy has put it down pretty well and you can just follow his program and get where you want to go. The biggest thing with this is your timing. That and keeping the sessions short and ending each one on a happy note. Along with that thought I'd suggest teaching WHOA at the same time. It works out well and you can use the dog standing still to end on a happy note if everything else goes to pot. Like all good training programs it is progressive and everything is done in steps. That way you can go back to the last step and start over if something goes wrong. Wirehairs are smart dogs which can handle a lot of pressure. But if your dog has been sort of coasting for a while I'd suggest doing some other training first and get the dogs head in the game then introduce FF. These tables are great and you should use it for grooming, checking the dog over for injuries after a run, and happying it up in general so that the dog sees it as a happy place. Even my lurcher runs and jumps on the table if I'm heading in that direction.
A few notes. You don't have to use an e-collar. I don't for FF as my timing is not quite good enough. Bad timing can set you back. Wirehairs are smart dogs so don't waste time when you see the dog has got the idea. Move on to the next step and remember to keep the sessions short. Also, keep play time and training time separate. When the training is done and you are at a happy spot put the dog up for awhile and let it digest what it has just done. Keep it away from game while it is training and only let it hold it's training tools. One last thought, most people I know say hold from the beginning. In the link he suggest that you don't. But I know of others who just say fetch and get along fine.
He's even got the thoughts and advice posted here.
I hope this is useful to you and you not only enjoy it but are rewarded with the hell or high water retriever you deserve.
morning finn iv just woke up to your reply a couple of hrs ago.thanks very much for your help I just got a quick look at your reply but I will sit down tonight after work and go true it.i honestly thought in your first reply you were more or less telling me to give up on her and that was 1 thing I wasn't going to do.it all sounds good from u I take it you have trained 1 or 2 of them in your time?
Hi PMJC, sorry it took so long to get back to you. No, I wouldn't suggest giving up on her. If I understand your posts she's your dog and your pretty happy with her.
I keep reading on here that wirehairs take a long time to mature. I'm not sure what they are talking about when they say this. We put a lot of pressure on them in an organized and progressive program. It's designed to utilize the breeding of the dog and to awaken it's potential.
One thing I would suggest is picking one program and following it. If your not up to force fetching your dog and are not interested in taking her to a professional trainer then you'll have to come up with something else. In the meantime, I'd not put her on game at all. When you shot the duck you taught her that she didn't have to retrieve for you, and that when she refused you played with her. In this dogs mind either she is working for you, or you are working for her. There is no partnership the way people think of it.
Don't use shot game for training they should always be handled with respect. Remember these are smart dogs and they are watching you. Use dead game you take out of the cooler for your retrieving work. When the dog is catching on use fresh killed game. When she is handling this then she is ready for shot game.
Getting back to Force Fetch, the best reason to force fetch is to ensure a solid retriever. Beyond that we use it as the platform for blood tracking large game. We do this by introducing game drags off of the bench and sending the dog to retrieve. She'll follow the sent to the game and retrieve it. Once she has this we introduce blood as opposed to a drag. She knows to follow the scent to the game and to retrieve it to you. When she finds a piece of deer hide she'll mouth it and maybe give it a shake because it's new and your home free.
How is her pointing coming along by the way?
Edited by Mickey Finn, 14 October 2015 - 03:51 am.