.22-250 Newbie Advice

[charlie caller 3,654]

What makes me laugh is they will let you have a .22-250 without a mentor, but insist on one for a .243, ridiculous, a .22-250 is every bit as deadly as a .243, and only produces around 400-500 ftlbs less, but thats the crazy world of firearms licensing for you, dont get too hung up about twist rates and barrel lengths mate, the standard 1/14 twist will be spot on with 50-55 grain bullets, and they are all you will ever need, and if you are not reloading, and using factory stuff, then most likely they are the bullet weights your rfd will have in stock, and you will have to shoot a lot of foxes to wear a barrel out, literally thousands, I have a Weatherby in .243 and they are cracking rifles, very well engineered,and very accurate, if a little heavy, however I think if I wanted a .22 centerfire, I would go for a CZ 527, I urge you to have a look at this superb range of rifles, they are fantastic value for money, rugged,superbly accurate, and not too heavy, even the varmint models, go for an over barrel moderator, something like a Wildcat or a PES/MAE will fit the bill nicely,but as I have said to others, TAKE THAT MODERATOR OFF EVERY TIME YOU PUT THE RIFLE AWAY, or you will rot out the crown, you have made an excellent choice with .22-250, it is the best of all the .22 cf even taking the edge over the venerable .220 swift, have fun, you are in for some good shooting with your .22-250 mate

[maktayla 50]

Thanks for the advice Charlie.

My thoughts exactly with the .243 & 22-250. I suppose they make the decisions on that extra energy and the ability to shoot a heavier load?? I don't know, maybe they have to have a cut off point?? Thanks for the advice on twist rates. I suppose sometimes you can read too much into something and all of a sudden your mind is overloaded with so much technical info. I have seriously considered the CZ. My HMR is a CZ and I have had hours of shooting with it and it is still incredibly accurate. I don't think I've ever known anyone to give CZ a bad name neither.

I'm so glad you mentioned the moderator because I had no idea until I read it on here (maybe it was from yourself), that leaving it on can cause that amount of damage. You learn something new every day

If you don't mind me asking, how did you go about zeroing your .243. I have read its best to zero at 100yds so you're shooting about an inch high. If that is correct will it give me a smack on at say 200yds? I want to be able to do it without using too may rounds for obvious reasons. Got any hints or tips.

 

Once again, thanks.

[let'sshoot 11]

Back to the point someone made about the .223 losing accuracy after excessive use - what is excessive and how do you tell?

 

Thanks

[maktayla 50]

Let'sshoot

I would imagine it would be target shooters or someone that does a lot of target shooting, maybe using a lot of heavy home loads or just shoots a hell of a lot of rounds. I've been told to take the time between shots when i do any zeroing and not to let the barrel get hot. I can't see how you would get excessive use if you are using the rifle for hunting only. So I personally dont think its too much to worry about. I'm looking at buying a .22-250 and I do believe this may suffer more from barrel wear than .223

I think this is one reason I would rather buy a new gun. You know whats been through the barrel from day one. I know there are some good second hand rifles and i would definately buy from someone I knew or, comes highly recommended. The only way I know how to tell if a barrel has had excessive use is, if the accuracy starts to drop off and you get the barrel bore scoped.

 

No doubt someone will give you a better explanation than me because I'm still learning in the centrefire world, hence this thread.

[let'sshoot 11]

I don't know if my 223 is accurate enough compared to what some are saying on here.

I had it second hand, but was told it had had little use, but it's like buying a second hand car, they can say it hasn't been thrashed, but nobody knows.

When I fire 5 shots during zeroing, the barrel gets warm, but not too hot to touch.

I just wondered, maybe mine is 'worn'??

 

Have fancied a stainless barrel - maybe time for a variation. Is it possible to have a 223 for 223 variation? Thanks

[abarrett 461]

Is the gun holding a group

The barrel will get warm after a couple of shots

[let'sshoot 11]

It doesn't really group, out of 5 there are usually 2 fliers, the other 3 may be within 2" at 100yds

[charlie caller 3,654]

Thanks for the advice Charlie.

My thoughts exactly with the .243 & 22-250. I suppose they make the decisions on that extra energy and the ability to shoot a heavier load?? I don't know, maybe they have to have a cut off point?? Thanks for the advice on twist rates. I suppose sometimes you can read too much into something and all of a sudden your mind is overloaded with so much technical info. I have seriously considered the CZ. My HMR is a CZ and I have had hours of shooting with it and it is still incredibly accurate. I don't think I've ever known anyone to give CZ a bad name neither.

I'm so glad you mentioned the moderator because I had no idea until I read it on here (maybe it was from yourself), that leaving it on can cause that amount of damage. You learn something new every day

If you don't mind me asking, how did you go about zeroing your .243. I have read its best to zero at 100yds so you're shooting about an inch high. If that is correct will it give me a smack on at say 200yds? I want to be able to do it without using too may rounds for obvious reasons. Got any hints or tips.

 

Once again, thanks.

Zero an inch high @100 yards mate, will be spot on, if I zero a new scope etc, boresight the scope first by putting the rifle in a secure clamp or on bags, look down the barrel at a target, then without moving anything look down the scope and see how far the cross hairs are from the target, then adjust until the two match up, this will give you a rough zero, start at 50 yards to get you on the paper, then back to 100, get some insulation tape and make a cross on some cardboard, get your bipod down and a bag under the rear, and hold your cross hairs on the cross, shoot five shot groups,allowing the barrel to cool between shots, open the bolt and leave it five mins between shots.

[abarrett 461]

Give it a good clean the clean it again

Get a shop to check the crown

It's even worth taking the scope off then put it back on checking all is tight

If you have the crown recut it's about £40

Try a different bullet

It's worth doing all this before you think of getting rid

You can get the bore scoped to check its sound

A worn mod will cause flyers

Doesn't matter where they go high low left right fire 5 shots without the mod that will rule that out

If it groups then it's the mod

A lad I get out with had this problem this was the advice we where given

Good luck

[let'sshoot 11]

Ok, its a new mod, 6 months old, about 30 rounds. Have cleaned it and cleaned the barrel, still not perfect as I'd expect. I have one of those MTM predator rests which I normally zero from.

I will give it a go next time I'm out.

Thanks

[RogerTheCat 3]

I bought a Remington 700 varmint barrel in 22 250 from SGC a few months ago. Not sure if its the sps. It's my first centre fire. Very impressed with it and its accuracy given i am new to centre fires. The only down side is that it is one of the Remingtons with a faulty trigger so it has had to go back to have a new trigger fitted which is taking ages.

[maktayla 50]

Thanks for the advice Charlie. Gonna give that a go when I get my rifle. Its got to save me some rounds. Do you anything about the cartridge that has a laser built into. If so, are they any good?

Let'sshoot: You can have a one to one variation for another .223. If you wanted to sell your rifle you can, but you will need to send your licence back in after the usual forms so as the police can remove that entry from your certificate and show you no longer have a .223 at home. As ABarrett said, have you tried different rounds as well. I know there is a difference between centrefire and rimfire but, my HMR did not get along at all with 17 grain hornady. Tried the 20gr CCI and it shoots sweetly and accurately. Sorry if I have stated the obvious. How much would a RFD charge to borescope it and check it out for you. I also had a problem with a scope once. I did buy it second hand and it looked perfectly fine. Could not get it to shoot right. Like you, I could get it to shoot one or two on target, and then I would have some fliers. I was starting to doubt my rifle. So I asked a mate for a lend of his scope and thats when I found out it was my scope. It was a relief. Got another scope and it shoots great. Just some suggestions mate. I hope you get it sorted.

Rogerthecat: Hope you get your rifle back soon mate. Its killing me saving for a rifle. My patience is awful.

[charlie caller 3,654]

Dont waste your money on a laser boresighter they will get you on target roughly, nothing more, save yourself the cash and just boresight it, its free

[shropshire dan 467]

Im planning on using the boresight method on my .22-250 going off the bipod with something solid under the butt. Anyone no how many rounds to relead a .22-250 please

 

Atb

Dan

[danw 1,748]

Im planning on using the boresight method on my .22-250 going off the bipod with something solid under the butt. Anyone no how many rounds to relead a .22-250 please

 

Atb

Dan

How do you mean relead ?