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37-40?..I havnt heard anyone say that!,I had a 145 yrd shot the other day with roughly a 3 inch aim above the target from what mine is zeroed in at and there's not much trouble if you practice at targets to check the drop from anything from 25-125. depending on the range your using but as Shropshire Dan has stated its up to you but it would either be 75 or 100 from my opinion and from many others aswell mate.

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i think i understand paulus, are you talking about the trajectory arc and the point of zero where it via's off but then meets that POA again at greater distance?

from point zero the arc of the round will pass twice through the same point at different distances one close and one at a far greater distance

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But then this would only be of use to heavier rounds with more of a drop which would shoot at longer ranges preferably the centrefire calibres, although in technicality it will still work with rimfires...let's not convince runlurchers1 this is something to be tried lol

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This is such a misunderstood topic. Daft as it might sound, I even know people who think the bullet climbs when it leaves the barrel before slowing and descending.

 

Let us start by assuming that you got the hmr because you want to shoot things like rabbits at reasonable distances (If you want to shoot quietly at 80 yards or less a .22lr is more appropriate).

 

Let us also assume that you want to maximise the 'flat' shooting potential of the hmr rather than shoot everything at a fixed distance.

 

Here is the trajectory of my own rifle using Hornady 17gr V-Max. In your case you need to shoot targets at different distances to plot the trajectory for your own gun / ammunition.

 

By zeroing at 110 yards, my bullet will fall within the area of a 2p coin from about 32 yards to 125 yards without any holdover or holdunder.

 

This suits me and my shooting situations. At 150 yards the drop is 2 inches which is easy to remember. I rarely shoot rabbits that far (never further) and most tend to be in the 40 to 110 yard range.

 

If you were to choose, in this case, the 50 yard point to accurately zero your scope you will find it is too close to show up any errors. You would easily get almost bullet on bullet at that distance but might find that you are an inch out at 110 yards and errors get compounded. Always finally set your zero accurately by shooting at the furthest distance, and on a still day, on level ground.

 

The trajectory and your choice of zero point is very dependent on the height of your scope above the barrel.

 

If you like playing with computers, get a copy of Hawke Chairgun Pro (PC) and that will help to visualise your trajectory and 'kill zone'.

 

For the short answer...... zero at 100 yards and see how you get on :victory:

 

 

 

 

post-33309-0-81928700-1403309056_thumb.jpg

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Zero at 100 yards, if nothing else it will be good practice. Get yourself some decent targets, stick them out at 100 yard and go for it.

 

I normally shoot Remington’s but after the occasional poor batch I thought I’d stock up on Hornady as a backup and will try them next week. Quite a different point of impact from the Remington, fiddled with the scope a little and ended up fine. Targets shot as numbered, brisk left to right breeze.

 

The home made ‘shoot-n-see’ targets are great for hunting zeroing, you can see the holes quite easily at 100 yards (unless they are in the white).

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take a look at this works with my arnie http://www.chuckhawks.com/17HMR.htm

 

A better way to zero a .17 HMR rifle is to put the 17 grain bullet 1.5" high at 100 yards, for a zero range of 145 yards. It would then hit about 0.9" high at 50 yards, 0.3" low at 150 yards, and 5.5" low at 200 yards. The maximum point blank range (+/- 1.5") of the cartridge would be about 165 yards, at which range the bullet retains about 90 ft. lbs.of energy, enough to remain effective on the smaller varmints.

Edited by archiekale
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