Alternative Set-Up For Running Lines

[Joonsy 38]

Alternative rigging method for running lines on traditional longnets.

When working a traditional set longnet it is of course vital that the running lines are completely free to run round the end pins. It is normal practice to fix last mesh of net to top/bottom running lines to keep end of net in place a short distance from end pin. The fixed end meshes are kept near enough an equal distance from end pin on both top/bottom lines, this distance doesn’t have to be exact of course but severe unequalness can cause problems and you may have to occasionally adjust this distance, for example when doing numerous sets in one session with same net this distance can occasionally become so unequal that the net can become stretched tight between top and bottom fixed end mesh prohibiting lines from running freely as the top/bottom lines will only rotate around end pin as far as the fixed end meshes allow, when this happens the only remedy is to remove all pegs pull lines tight and re-adjust. There is no real problem with normal set-up, i’ve used it for years, however there is an alternative way to rig lines which does have some advantage because the running lines will never ever need any adjustment whatsoever as the distance from end pin to first mesh remains permanently constant whatever happens eliminating any need for re-adjustment -- Anyway this is how you rig it. When setting up a net thread lines through all top and bottom meshes as normal, after lines exit the last top and bottom mesh join lines together (I splice, sew if you wish, but this join must run smoothly so a knot is no good), now get a separate length of cord approx 36-40 inches long and thread this through all of the end meshes only of net and importantly also ‘around’ the line which runs through top/bottom meshes, now also run this short cord through your end pin and join ends together (once again splice or sew). That’s it, if you now examine it you will have two completely independent loops linked together but completely free to rotate around each other, a very long one going all around top/bottom meshes and a very short one linking to end pin. Both loops can continuously run around each other totally independently forever, the short loop holds meshes a set distance from end pin which will remain permanently constant whatever happens. The short loop length needs to be long enough to wrap around net/pins when packing nets away, 36-40 inch length of cord will give approx 18-20 inch loop which suits me (length is personal choice but is best to keep it no longer than an arms length so you can reach net with one hand while holding end pin with other hand). One thing to note, when using this setup its important not to set last peg too close to end pin else it can cause an acute angle between pin and peg that can lift bottom line, if last peg is set about 4’6’’ to 5’ from pin this resolves that. It’s not a better method just a different one giving more options to the longnetters armoury. Photos below, have used different colour lines for each loop for demonstration. (PS there are various other ways to setup this method such as threading the lines all through the end meshes first before adding second short loop.) Sorry for lengthy description.

 

showing linked loops

 

close-up of linked loops

 

corrrectly set with peg about 58 inches from end pin for suitable angle

 

incorrerctly set with peg too close to short green loop causing acute angle that can lift bottom line

 

[smithie 2,424]

i like the look of it, well done.

[Tiercel 6,986]

The first thing I do when confronted with a new idea, is try and find a reason why it won't work, my own and anybody elses, then try and work out the snags. I have thought about this for over an hour and I cannot find anything that could go wrong with it. It's beauty is in it's simplicity and like all good ideas that work, that are not your own, there is always the pang of 'why did I not think of that?' Well done a brilliant idea.

 

The migrating lines can be a bind when setting multiple sets with tied in nets. I used to have that problem myself when I first started and it took me a while to work out what caused them. Once I had worked it out the remedies were simple. As I am sure you know the cause of the net migrating around the lines is the length of the top line. The top line is always longer than the footline by way of the clove hitch used to secure the net to the pegs and a single turn used for the footline. It is only an inch or so on each peg but thats 11 inches on a 50yard net.

 

When I started, I picked up with each loop of line the same size going on the end pin so by the time I got to the end of the net I could have 5 to 11 inches of slack on the headline at the last peg, once I took that peg out and the line was running through the end pin the slack would be taken out by the the headline moving forward, that would carry on for each set and it would move the ties.

 

So once I had worked out what was causing the net migrating along the lines the next step was to remedy it, the first thing I thought of was making the lines the same lengths when set by dent of a double loop around the bottom of the pegs, it did work, but sometimes putting the double loop around the pegs was a real pain as when making the second loop the peg would get caught up in the netting. So back to the drawing board for me. It then occured to me one day when picking up when ferreting that on the last loop on the pin before I picked a peg up if I made the headline loop slightly larger than the footline loop I would be taking up the slack that the clove hitch on the preveious peg had caused. That is what I have used to this day and even though I do get a little creep it is nothing like it was previously.

 

That said I cannot wait to try this method out.

 

TC

Edited March 6, 2014 by tiercel

[Joonsy 38]

Thanks for replies folks. That alternative method I’ve posted is a self-equalizing system. It has a few more benefits but my last post started to get a bit long. Rigging a net that way is very quick indeed and very simple, in fact you can rig a net up without moving out of your chair if you so wish as you do not need to run out net full length to rig it. All you need to know is how long you want finished net to be, rig it and then collect up on pins, admittedly you may want to run out net full length to distribute bagging better but lines will self-equalize when doing so and need no further adjustment. Also when adding running lines to net if using two separate lines for top/bottom lines it doesn’t matter at all if one is longer than the other as when joined together it forms one very big loop all through mesh edges, say you were rigging a 50 yarder then you know you want 100 yards of line, it doesn’t matter at all if you use for example say a 36 yard line and a 64 yard line provided the combined length of cord equals 100 yards. Or of course you can rig it quickly with one length of cord only. With this method the main advantage is eliminating the problem of migrating lines, when you pick up a net and get to the end both lines will ALWAYS be an equal distance to the end of net meshes, should one line happen to become longer during pick-up they simply self-equalize at the end of net. There are a couple of options of how to thread end meshes (small loop must pass through them, large loop optional).

[Tiercel 6,986]

If you braided a purse net ring on to the end meshes of the netting passed the running line through the rings, you could then have a single bridle to your end pin?

 

What really fascinates me is where you got the idea from, what prompted that line of thought? From your posts it is plain to see that you think outside the box, and can find inspiration from other applications. But I cannot work out where this has come from.

 

TC

[Hot Meat 3,109]

I really need to give making nets a go, this summer deffo, once I get my fill of the brownies lol

[bobcullen79 1,495]

I like it. Thanks for sharing

[Joonsy 38]

A purse net ring would have the same effect, when i came up with this method I did try that but decided against it, i felt it had the potential for metal to jangle against metal, you can control the end pins and ensure they don't tap against each other but it would be harder to stop a floating ring from tapping against pin (though you could use a plastic one i guess), that may sound like taking things a bit too far and you may say how much noise can a ring make tapping against pin and it's being over cautious (and you may be right) but tapping metal is a very unnatural noise and can be heard from a considerable distance (as you will know if you have ever heard someone clumsily tap their end pins together usually at the worst moment when unraveling net at start of set) perhaps i am too much of a perfectionist but as the ring serves no purpose whatsoever i see it as unnecessary work myself though that is just my opinion of course and certainly not fact. I got the idea from a number of things that happened to me, migrating lines as already mentioned was one thing and the main thing, rejoined bitten through lines leaving lines uneven being another especially when more repairs to one line than the other, years ago I used linen nets a lot and hung them to dry on poles in garden and lines took a bit of fiddling about to even up and reset net that way, other things such as tackling bitten lines in the field. I realized that free floating end meshes would be beneficial and eliminate some problems and lesser irritations. Examining the normal set up it was essential for lines to be free running and for end meshes to be kept in place, kept but not ‘fixed’, realizing that a loop has no end and is self equalizing when tensioned and the eye of your end pin is just a loop anyway the normal setup is essentially already made up from two interlocking loops anyway, with this in mind and realizing that when you pick up a net if lines are uneven it is the fixed meshes that cause the problem not the rotating lines (if you see what I mean) so it seemed obvious to remedy meshes not lines and played around with various ways until I settled on one I liked.

[smithie 2,424]

if i ever rig another net up i will give this a go.

 

i wont make another and have loads of nets as is but im intrested to try it.

[NELS0N 457]

If you braided a purse net ring on to the end meshes of the netting passed the running line through the rings, you could then have a single bridle to your end pin?

 

What really fascinates me is where you got the idea from, what prompted that line of thought? From your posts it is plain to see that you think outside the box, and can find inspiration from other applications. But I cannot work out where this has come from.

 

TC

i was thinking this over xmas while i was knitting away.

[Leeview 787]

If you braided a purse net ring on to the end meshes of the netting passed the running line through the rings, you could then have a single bridle to your end pin?

 

 

 

TC

 

 

A purse net ring would have the same effect, when i came up with this method I did try that but decided against it, i felt it had the potential for metal to jangle against metal, you can control the end pins and ensure they don't tap against each other but it would be harder to stop a floating ring from tapping against pin (though you could use a plastic one i guess), that may sound like taking things a bit too far and you may say how much noise can a ring make tapping against pin and it's being over cautious (and you may be right) but tapping metal is a very unnatural noise and can be heard from a considerable distance (as you will know if you have ever heard someone clumsily tap their end pins together usually at the worst moment when unraveling net at start of set) perhaps i am too much of a perfectionist but as the ring serves no purpose whatsoever i see it as unnecessary work myself though that is just my opinion of course and certainly not fact. I got the idea from a number of things that happened to me, migrating lines as already mentioned was one thing and the main thing, rejoined bitten through lines leaving lines uneven being another especially when more repairs to one line than the other, years ago I used linen nets a lot and hung them to dry on poles in garden and lines took a bit of fiddling about to even up and reset net that way, other things such as tackling bitten lines in the field. I realized that free floating end meshes would be beneficial and eliminate some problems and lesser irritations. Examining the normal set up it was essential for lines to be free running and for end meshes to be kept in place, kept but not ‘fixed’, realizing that a loop has no end and is self equalizing when tensioned and the eye of your end pin is just a loop anyway the normal setup is essentially already made up from two interlocking loops anyway, with this in mind and realizing that when you pick up a net if lines are uneven it is the fixed meshes that cause the problem not the rotating lines (if you see what I mean) so it seemed obvious to remedy meshes not lines and played around with various ways until I settled on one I liked.

 

Tc's suggestion of braiding onto a purse net ring you decided against because of the potential noise problem, a lambing ring or section of inner tube would eliminate the noise potential imo

Y.I.S Leeview

[bobcullen79 1,495]

I`d have thought a bit of inner tube or castration ring would perish or burn through quite quick, then you would have to break your running lines to fit another.

[Joonsy 38]

 

Tc's suggestion of braiding onto a purse net ring you decided against because of the potential noise problem, a lambing ring or section of inner tube would eliminate the noise potential imo

 

There is absolutely no need to add anything at all, adding any type of ring does not improve or change the sysyem in any way whatsoever, there is simply no noise problem at all with just two interlocking cord loops. i am all for beneficial change but adding something just for the sake of it which does not change the system in any way at all is just creating extra unneccessary work and trying to resolve a problem that doesn't exist, also don't forget that as loops naturally rotate in use wear is always distributed onto different parts as well.

[smithie 2,424]

It is normal practice to fix last mesh of net to top/bottom running lines to keep end of net in place a short distance from end pin.

 

 

i was trying to think about the benefit from this and wondered if you are fixing something not yet broken. i think what you are saying is the net is fixed to runing line top and bottom in the corners and because you do 2 different knotts the line gets tighter at the top.

 

i do not fix my net to the running lines in any place at all so by placing the end pin in the ground then running the net with the bottom mesh and the top mesh wrapped around the peg with the knott and then doing the same when finishin at the other end before i place the end pin i see no need for the modifaction to the net

[smithie 2,424]

having read this again i see that some trad netters must fix the nets in the corners, i did not realise people did this, i do not as any think anything fixed is on the way from not being what i see as a traditional net and a step closer to being a quick set. but thats a different topic