Knife Identity

[hobble 11]

I do agree with your comment 'it is what it is'!

A clean up where its pitted, a new edge on it finished with a new home made handle and its still left with some of its history still showing (whatever that may have been) :0)

Edited January 25, 2014 by hobble

[WoodsmanJim 160]

I'd leave the pitting on all of the blade other than the edge, just clean the remaining rust our of them. It gives it character. The edge will need a fair bit of cutting back to be straight and clean, but not so much as to ruin the overall look of the knife. As for rivets there are lots of choices, once you've cut the old ones out I'd be tempted to chamfer the holes on the new handle scales, use brass rod and peen the ends down. If it were my knife I'd do this because a) I want to try it, and b ) I think it'd look great!

 

Jim

Edited January 25, 2014 by WoodsmanJim

[riohog 5,621]

you could use copper harness rivets they would pean over easy and they come with one flat at one end ..

[hobble 11]

Anybody know the average thickness for the wood handle for one of these knives? My wood is measuring 10mm per side but to me seems a little on the large side!

[forest of dean redneck 11,190]

Just measured mine roughly 8 mm.

[WoodsmanJim 160]

The scales on my type D are about 10mm thick each. The fieldcrafter that I handled in the thread that you commented on Hobble, I started with 12mm thick wood each side and the tang is about 5mm so I've ended up with a really thick handle. It's really about personal choice and if you've got the chance to make a handle you can make to whatever thickness you want it. I like a chunky handle so went big, other prefer slimmer handles. Most wood sold for making knife scales with is 10mm thick so what you have won't be far wrong, but just do it how you want really!

 

Jim

[hobble 11]

Thats 8mm approx for each piece of wood? My wood is 10mm thick, I thought it may be too thick, or are they sturdy thick handles anyway?

[hobble 11]

Ok the above post of mine has been answered..thanks jim...ok will work with what I have! I managed to hacksaw and tap the rivets out today and wire brush the whole knife down...so far looking good...may have to take away abt 1mm of blade upto where the blade starts to curve then put a new edge on it....or just live with the blade as it is with the abuse dents on it.??

[WoodsmanJim 160]

Personally, if it were mine I'd grind/sand/ sharpen it back till all the chunks in the blade are gone, but that's just me. If you're just going to use for hacking about and dirty jobs then you could just sharpen it up as it is. If it turns out to be annoying to use with the dents in you can always grind it back at a later date. what does your gut tells you is the best way to complete this knifes story? :-)

 

Jim

[hobble 11]

Im quite tempted to leave the blade pitted as dont want to be over doing it...then just concentrate on the blade edge itself! To get the cutting edge reasonable abt 1mm needs to be ground off just to the point of where the edge starts to curve toward the knife point then grind a sharp edge to it.

Alan

Edited January 26, 2014 by hobble

[forest of dean redneck 11,190]

Thats 8mm approx for each piece of wood? My wood is 10mm thick, I thought it may be too thick, or are they sturdy thick handles anyway?

Yeah they are 8 mm thick each,

I got mine when I lived in Dorset off a deerstalker who got fed up carrying it around and wanted something lighter on his hip.

[hobble 11]

I can understand the wanting something liggter on the hip as it is a weighty blade.

[WoodsmanJim 160]

some more pics from hobble:

 

 

 

 

 

I reckon that wood will look superb once shaped and oiled. Top stuff!

 

Jim

[hobble 11]

Many thanks jim, once again your assistance is of great help... its becoming an enjoyable little project. :0)

[Tiercel 6,986]

That wood looks like meranti or sapele to me, same family as mahogany just a lot less expensive. hence it's use on firedoors. Genuine mahogany is just too expensive to use on fire doors.

 

TC