Gtbaker369 44 Posted April 27, 2015 Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 I use the alum/salt method and rub a little neatsfoot oil after drying and stretching. I suppose this will protect the skin from absorbing moisture, I have made rabbit skinned wrapped training dummies for the dogs and these get wet and dry out fine without any issues. The deer skins I have done don't get wet and I don't think it would do them any good, I think there are more permanent and durable leather tanning methods that would give you a water resistant skin out there. Best of luck. Cheers for that pal, much appreciated. Looking forward to getting cracking now, first stuff i ordered never came so had to order from someone else. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gtbaker369 44 Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 Everything is coming along nicely now. Put them in for a few days then fleshed them. theyre back in now for another couple of weeks. Had a few issues with the pelts tearing slightly when i was peeling the flesh off but not too bad. looking forward to seeing end results Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gtbaker369 44 Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 Come on then lads, I must have done something wrong, Started trying to stretch my hides that have now dries out but they rock solid and some are tearing. Where have I gone wrong? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David K 172 Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 You need to start your stretching before the skin fully dries out, it doesn't take much effort to rip a rabbit skin so go easy. You will see the skin change colour to white as it stretches and breaks the skin fibres. If you have let them dry out so they are hard you will probably have to wet them again, but I don't know if this will ruin your curing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gtbaker369 44 Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 Cheers bud, does anyone else know if wetting them will ruin them? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rory4 267 Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 What would happen to the pelts if you just salted them and let them dry out? Can someone put link up for the alum please? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ash Dav 4 Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 I've got this rabbit hear if any one wants to do the tanning for me I'd like to make some baby boots or gloves 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SINDASOX 255 Posted February 19, 2017 Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 I fancied having a go at tanning some rabbit skins so i sent for the white tan kit from Snowdonia Taxidermy Supplies. I thought it would be simple, just throw them in the solution for 24 hours and job done, but it doesn't work like that. There's the salting, fleshing, washing, drying, and softening. Iv'e had a go at a few now, but i cant seem to get a really nice one finished as yet, struggling with the fleshing, cannot seem to get a nice finish on the hide with removing all the flesh, can get it off in certain area's then other area's it just is not the same. Has anyone got any advice how to get a nice clean all over finish on the skin after you have fleshed it, I'm salting them first and leaving them 3 to 4 days. Thanks SINDASOX Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foxdropper 17,092 Posted February 25, 2017 Report Share Posted February 25, 2017 Could do with a video tutorial from someone in the know please .Im looking to do a particularly well furred fox taken this year . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Welsh_red 4,298 Posted February 25, 2017 Report Share Posted February 25, 2017 I fancied having a go at tanning some rabbit skins so i sent for the white tan kit from Snowdonia Taxidermy Supplies. I thought it would be simple, just throw them in the solution for 24 hours and job done, but it doesn't work like that. There's the salting, fleshing, washing, drying, and softening. Iv'e had a go at a few now, but i cant seem to get a really nice one finished as yet, struggling with the fleshing, cannot seem to get a nice finish on the hide with removing all the flesh, can get it off in certain area's then other area's it just is not the same. Has anyone got any advice how to get a nice clean all over finish on the skin after you have fleshed it, I'm salting them first and leaving them 3 to 4 days. Thanks SINDASOX i got the same solution here but havnt got around to using it yet . Are you using a proper fleshing knife? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mandog 36 Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 Can you put a picture up of the finished skins. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Micheala Robinson 400 Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 Can you put a picture up of the finished skins. I'd be interested to see too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EDDIE B 3,118 Posted February 28, 2017 Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 Could do with a video tutorial from someone in the know please .Im looking to do a particularly well furred fox taken this year . Keep that good pelt and try the process with another one. Loads of video's on YouTube. Most methods are time consuming, especially the softening/ working the hide. Some methods are cheap, others expensive, but all include working the hide, as far as I'm aware. I got a dvd off eBay which shows the process very clearly. Shows a couple different methods too. Can't think of the name of it, but can check for you if you want. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quest 79 Posted February 28, 2017 Report Share Posted February 28, 2017 I use McKenzie tan from Mackenzie taxidermy supply company. You need acid ph paper and the tanning oil plus salt. It only takes a 3 to 4 days. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foxdropper 17,092 Posted March 1, 2017 Report Share Posted March 1, 2017 Could do with a video tutorial from someone in the know please .Im looking to do a particularly well furred fox taken this year . Keep that good pelt and try the process with another one. Loads of video's on YouTube. Most methods are time consuming, especially the softening/ working the hide. Some methods are cheap, others expensive, but all include working the hide, as far as I'm aware. I got a dvd off eBay which shows the process very clearly. Shows a couple different methods too. Can't think of the name of it, but can check for you if you want. Yes please Eddie ,much appreciated . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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