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Pigeon (Feral) Trap Design

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Guest Ditch_Shitter

Click This. Let It Load. Expand It.

post-3041-1196110644_thumb.jpg

 

 

This is the MAFF design Feral Pigeon Trap. I've lifted this one from Mr James Bateman's book, " Animal Traps and Trapping " (David & Charles. 1971) because I've been asked to provide such plans and am unable to locate my own, original MAFF blue prints just now.

 

If ye want to make a more portable design, simply follow the given instructions for the Bob Holes and incorperate those into a far smaller Cage, measuring round about two or three feet square by a foot tall. Think also about welded mesh, cable ties and collapsability. Maybe you can come up with something nice and light and which can be folded down for storage and transport? ;)

 

Most importantly of all: Try to avoid using any such trap where the public may view or access them. Provide food and water for the captives. Despatch any catches swiftly and humanely. Then I'd strongly suggest tying them off inside black, plastic bags and incinerating the lot at high temprature.

 

All casual annecdote aside; These particular birds really are comparable to 'Flying Rats'. Please don't treat them casually :no:

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There is an interesting thread on this in Another Place at the moment and I'm planning a go at one myself.

 

This picture of the finished item was posted by IVAN and I hope he won't mind me repeating it here.

 

 

 

You'll notice down the bottom corners there is a hint of green. This is the commercial 'Bob-wires' used by the pigeon racing fraternity. They come with a plastic 'T' top which is hollow, so you just slide them onto a bar and they're all spaced out correctly. About 5 togther seems the normal usage.

 

 

 

These are all either 9" or 12" long which leads me to believe that allowing for the 'stop bar' at the bottom, you need an entrance hole clearance of atleast 8" high.

 

The way it works is that pecking birds put there head between the bob-wires and was they move forward their shoulders push the bob-wires up. Once through the wires drop back and a bar, either top or bottom, prevents them swinging back the other way when pushed from inside. As a nother of IVANs picture shows.

 

 

 

Oh yes - and a couple of places you can buy bobwires, about 30p each:

 

http://www.murrayandmills.co.uk/catalog/er...860x0&&

http://www.elimarpigeons.com/Shop/index.ph...amp;x=7&y=7

 

 

 

If the Bobnets on here is the same one, he will also have a valuable contribution to make to this thread, with an all-wire portable design along the lines DS mentions.

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All

 

This is a pigeon trap I made The trap mesures 24in x 16in x 8in and is called a Havahart N0 9 Pigeon Trap from the book Trapping a practical guide by james a bateman.

 

Must admit ive had it out for some time now and not had anything hopeing to give it a good go when the warmer weather returns and theres plenty of foolish young ones about.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:thumbs-up: :thumbs-up:

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Thanks mate - those were the ones I had in mind.

 

 

I have a concern that the opening might not be deep enough - I reckon the opening needs to be 8 inches plus, but I have no factual basis for that really.

 

 

The spacing between the wires is also key - on the commercial bob wires the 'shoulders' mean that the wires are 1.5 inches apart inside edge to inside edge. So my guess is that the bird can get it's head through to feed and then knocks the wires with it's wings / body while it's feeding. Probably doesn't even notice as it walks forwards.

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I've seen pigeon traps like the last one only those entry wirers are a little longer and slant in. Corn was used for bait and at times the cages had a good load of birds.

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i do a regular trap program,

 

DSCF9438.jpg

 

 

my trap was bought from killgerm.

but its more fun making and trying your own............

 

donks.

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Guest Ditch_Shitter

Spill ye guts, Donks! Come on! That KG trap obviously works; So what's the precise specifications, mate?

 

Then ~ armed with those ~ the lads can 'Have some fun' ;)

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i'll do some measurements and better pics on monday.........

this 1 folds up too for easy transfer from place to place.

 

prior to installation though is PREBAIT. yee know the scores...............

 

this is its location, high up.

 

1.jpg

 

DSCF3231.jpg

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I've just found it on the Killgerm web site.

 

http://www.killgerm.com/product-group.php?group=104

 

General dimensions are: Feral Pigeon Cage (1.0m x 0.6m x 0.3m) and so by counting the squares across the front and height, each mesh square is 5cm x 5cm.

 

So; the entrance is 4 squares wide (20cm) and 3 squares high (15cm). The hinge point is actually 4 squares up, but it's using a sqaure below as the stop.

 

So turning it into English: the front is 12 inches high and 24 inches wide. The entrance opening is 8 inches wide, 6 inches high.

 

So that blows my theory about bobnets' trap being too low :laugh: . The only other thing the two 'successful' traps have in common is the floor; The killgerm one has a plastic floor and the big wooden one is open to the tarmac. Perhaps they don't like a wire floor ?

 

 

 

Bobnets - are you able to make a inner floor from plywood or similar ?

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as well..... i often find after a good downpoor, that "tray" the cage sits on,, gets flooded, so when you go to greet them,, they flap around, saying take me,, take me... and you get covered in liquid shite. !!!!!!

this floor is galvo metal, not plastic. my suggestion is to pop a few holes here and there to allow for drainage.

although, with my 2 i prop 1 end up slightly, so they dont fill.

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Guest Ditch_Shitter
you get covered in liquid shite. !!!!!!

 

 

Oh FFS!!! Disease Soup on ye lips? :sick:

 

And thereafter approach Only in Full PPE, eh? :icon_eek:

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