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AIR ARMS S200 TRIGGER ADJUSTMENT


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I think the final weight being pretty heavy is due to the design of the mechanism. It's not a true two stage trigger, but not a single stage one either, more a 'one and a half' stage! This is because unless the rear spring is extremely strong, once you have pulled the first stage, the sear stays in position even when you release the trigger, as it's being held there by the full force of the firing spring acting on the striker (part 25 in the AA parts list).

 

1) The trigger return spring (part 68, which sits between trigger bar and sear) on mine was so strong that it would actually fire the action before the second stage grubscrew could!

I substituted this for the spring which controls the trigger weight (part 60, sits between rear of the trigger guard and rear of the sear). This gives a nice weight to the first stage.

 

2) Once you have sorted the above, you will notice there are actually about 4 stages to the trigger! This is caused by the tips of the adjustment gruscrews having squared off ends. I removed the screws and ground and polished the tips into a dome shape so that each has only one point of contact on the sear.

 

3) Remove the sear and shape and polish the rear face. The contour of the sear is basically a radius with its centre where the pivot pin is located. There should be a sharp edge between this face and the 'top' face of the sear, where it engages on the striker (part 25)

 

4) Tidy up and polish the step in the striker where the sear tip engages on it. It’s also not a bad idea to form a little flat on the bottom of this part so that as the sear disengages, it spreads the force over a slightly larger contact area.

 

Stages 3 and 4 are necessary, as any ‘grittiness’ you feel when operating the trigger is due to roughness on these two faces as they slide over one another.

 

5) Replace the trigger weight spring (part 60) with a likely looking spring either from something such as a ballpoint pen (!) or the correct part from AA. To increase the weight, screw into the rifle, to decrease, unscrew, but be careful not to go too far or it’ll ping out and disappear forever! You may be tempted to remove this for ultimate lightness, but don’t, as its other task is to make sure the sear engages in the face of the striker as you cock the action.

 

6) Now, for a two-stage feel, adjust the two grubscrews as follows (best to remove the air reservoir before this bit if you haven’t already!

 

a) Unscrew both so that pulling the trigger will not fire the action.

 

B) With the action cocked and trigger pulled fully back, slowly and carefully screw in the front grubscrew until the action just fires (keep your fingers out of the way of moving parts!) and back off 1/8 to ¼ turn.

 

c) Re-cock the action and pull the trigger again, if you’ve done the above correctly, it will not fire. That’s your first stage set.

 

d) With the trigger held fully to the rear, carefully screw in the rear grubscrew, again, until the action just fires. For safety’s sake, screw in another 1/8 to ¼ turn. That’s the second stage set.

 

e) Test the trigger with the gun reassembled. You can tweak the final pull off weight now with the rearmost grubscrew, but be aware that this is only able to fine-tune the weight, the real determining factor is the friction between the sear and the striker. I believe that this mechanism was originally designed for either pistol or short range target rifle use, both at 6 ft/lb and so the main spring (and thus friction in this area) would enable a much lighter trigger weight.

 

Only test / set your trigger with NO pellets in your gun .Once you have fired it about 10 time and your happy it`s safe , you can continue to use your gun as normal .

 

Bust .

 

 

As stated , this is a run through of trigger setting for the AAS200 , from AirArmsOwnersClub . Although what bearing that has on the actual setting of the trigger , i dont know .

Edited by Buster321c
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thats the copy and pasted timinder mod i told you about

ive done the above to the rifle already all you will need to do is adjust the weight and movement to how you want it with the 2 grub screws

im guessing you are going to set it a bit heavier? as it was pretty light already and if you set it lighter i think it might go off if bumped

Link to post

I think the final weight being pretty heavy is due to the design of the mechanism. It's not a true two stage trigger, but not a single stage one either, more a 'one and a half' stage! This is because unless the rear spring is extremely strong, once you have pulled the first stage, the sear stays in position even when you release the trigger, as it's being held there by the full force of the firing spring acting on the striker (part 25 in the AA parts list).

 

1) The trigger return spring (part 68, which sits between trigger bar and sear) on mine was so strong that it would actually fire the action before the second stage grubscrew could!

I substituted this for the spring which controls the trigger weight (part 60, sits between rear of the trigger guard and rear of the sear). This gives a nice weight to the first stage.

 

2) Once you have sorted the above, you will notice there are actually about 4 stages to the trigger! This is caused by the tips of the adjustment gruscrews having squared off ends. I removed the screws and ground and polished the tips into a dome shape so that each has only one point of contact on the sear.

 

3) Remove the sear and shape and polish the rear face. The contour of the sear is basically a radius with its centre where the pivot pin is located. There should be a sharp edge between this face and the 'top' face of the sear, where it engages on the striker (part 25)

 

4) Tidy up and polish the step in the striker where the sear tip engages on it. It’s also not a bad idea to form a little flat on the bottom of this part so that as the sear disengages, it spreads the force over a slightly larger contact area.

 

Stages 3 and 4 are necessary, as any ‘grittiness’ you feel when operating the trigger is due to roughness on these two faces as they slide over one another.

 

5) Replace the trigger weight spring (part 60) with a likely looking spring either from something such as a ballpoint pen (!) or the correct part from AA. To increase the weight, screw into the rifle, to decrease, unscrew, but be careful not to go too far or it’ll ping out and disappear forever! You may be tempted to remove this for ultimate lightness, but don’t, as its other task is to make sure the sear engages in the face of the striker as you cock the action.

 

6) Now, for a two-stage feel, adjust the two grubscrews as follows (best to remove the air reservoir before this bit if you haven’t already!

 

a) Unscrew both so that pulling the trigger will not fire the action.

 

B) With the action cocked and trigger pulled fully back, slowly and carefully screw in the front grubscrew until the action just fires (keep your fingers out of the way of moving parts!) and back off 1/8 to ¼ turn.

 

c) Re-cock the action and pull the trigger again, if you’ve done the above correctly, it will not fire. That’s your first stage set.

 

d) With the trigger held fully to the rear, carefully screw in the rear grubscrew, again, until the action just fires. For safety’s sake, screw in another 1/8 to ¼ turn. That’s the second stage set.

 

e) Test the trigger with the gun reassembled. You can tweak the final pull off weight now with the rearmost grubscrew, but be aware that this is only able to fine-tune the weight, the real determining factor is the friction between the sear and the striker. I believe that this mechanism was originally designed for either pistol or short range target rifle use, both at 6 ft/lb and so the main spring (and thus friction in this area) would enable a much lighter trigger weight.

 

Only test / set your trigger with NO pellets in your gun .Once you have fired it about 10 time and your happy it`s safe , you can continue to use your gun as normal .

 

Bust .

 

 

As stated , this is a run through of trigger setting for the AAS200 , from AirArmsOwnersClub . Although what bearing that has on the actual setting of the trigger , i dont know .

 

Thanks for advice .I will need access to air arms s200 manual.

Link to post

thats the copy and pasted timinder mod i told you about

ive done the above to the rifle already all you will need to do is adjust the weight and movement to how you want it with the 2 grub screws

im guessing you are going to set it a bit heavier? as it was pretty light already and if you set it lighter i think it might go off if bumped

 

I want to set it heavier but do not know which screw to adjust.

Link to post

thats the copy and pasted timinder mod i told you about

ive done the above to the rifle already all you will need to do is adjust the weight and movement to how you want it with the 2 grub screws

im guessing you are going to set it a bit heavier? as it was pretty light already and if you set it lighter i think it might go off if bumped

 

I want to set it heavier but do not know which screw to adjust.

 

if you pm me your email il send you all the info i saved including manuals and pics, think ive got a video too if i can find it il burn it onto disc and you can pick iy up whenever you like

Link to post

thats the copy and pasted timinder mod i told you about

ive done the above to the rifle already all you will need to do is adjust the weight and movement to how you want it with the 2 grub screws

im guessing you are going to set it a bit heavier? as it was pretty light already and if you set it lighter i think it might go off if bumped

 

I want to set it heavier but do not know which screw to adjust.

 

if you pm me your email il send you all the info i saved including manuals and pics, think ive got a video too if i can find it il burn it onto disc and you can pick iy up whenever you like

 

I WILL PHONE YOU LATER AND SORT IT OUT .THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.

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