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Reloading brass


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#1 mangy1983

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Posted 10 August 2010 - 09:46 pm

I've been reloading for a few weeks and l am sorting out my cases for their fourth reload. Trouble is out of the 50 odd l checked only 17 in my view are good enough for further reloading. I have noticed a lot of pin prick holes and deep scratches / hairline cracks in them (can you tell the difference?). My question is how strict are you when deciding whether to continue using a brass case and what do you look for.

cheers Callum

Edited by mangy1983, 10 August 2010 - 09:47 pm.


#2 matt_hooks

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Posted 10 August 2010 - 11:22 pm

Your head is the one next to the chamber when you loose off several thousand ft.lb's of energy, entirely your call!

#3 murphymax

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 02:02 am

AS ABOVE....

If in doubt throw it out :thumbdown:

#4 HUnter_zero

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 06:03 am

Callum, if you have ANY doubt at all, squash and throw the cases.


John

#5 mangy1983

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 09:58 am

Cheers guys for the replies. Out of the 79 cases l checked in total l only passed 23 of them. Don't know if I'm being too strict or what so l went and bought another 100 brass cases today.

cheers Callum

Edited by mangy1983, 11 August 2010 - 09:59 am.


#6 clint

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 12:02 pm

Is it over confidence or stupidity. :thumbs: If you not sure ..

DO NOT DO !! :icon_eek:

#7 SNAP SHOT

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 06:00 pm

Well personally speaking if that lot failed i'd bin the whole lot and start with a new batch,  why save 23 only maybe to throw them away on the next firing...!!!!

Save time and bin the lot now...

ps. i'd also get headspace checked on the gun, just in case....


Snap.

#8 jamie g

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 09:59 pm

i agree just use the new batch. no mix ups and use the same brand.

#9 dicehorn

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 11:12 pm

I've been reloading for a few weeks and l am sorting out my cases for their fourth reload. Trouble is out of the 50 odd l checked only 17 in my view are good enough for further reloading. I have noticed a lot of pin prick holes and deep scratches / hairline cracks in them (can you tell the difference?). My question is how strict are you when deciding whether to continue using a brass case and what do you look for.

cheers Callum


The advice above is sensible.

Your problem could be duplicated when you take on a new lot of brass as I very much doubt you originally bought a duff 100 cases.

Noting that you have not been reloading long - can I ask some questions.

What calibre are you reloading?
What brass were you using?
After fire forming did you just neck size for the next two firings?
After firing the brass for the first time, did you check to see if there were any apparrent pressure signs to these cases?
When you say pin prick holes do you actually mean the case has a hole going right through into the chamber of the case?
Where are the deep scratches on the case - are they roughly in the same place on each case - say 5mm long going from the shoulder to the headstamp?
After you had fireformed the cases and reloaded them, how did they cycle - easily or did they require a bit of effort when closing the bolt?

#10 mangy1983

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 11:34 pm


I've been reloading for a few weeks and l am sorting out my cases for their fourth reload. Trouble is out of the 50 odd l checked only 17 in my view are good enough for further reloading. I have noticed a lot of pin prick holes and deep scratches / hairline cracks in them (can you tell the difference?). My question is how strict are you when deciding whether to continue using a brass case and what do you look for.

cheers Callum


The advice above is sensible.

Your problem could be duplicated when you take on a new lot of brass as I very much doubt you originally bought a duff 100 cases.

Noting that you have not been reloading long - can I ask some questions.

What calibre are you reloading?
What brass were you using?
After fire forming did you just neck size for the next two firings?
After firing the brass for the first time, did you check to see if there were any apparrent pressure signs to these cases?
When you say pin prick holes do you actually mean the case has a hole going right through into the chamber of the case?

Where are the deep scratches on the case - are they roughly in the same place on each case - say 5mm long going from the shoulder to the headstamp?
After you had fireformed the cases and reloaded them, how did they cycle - easily or did they require a bit of effort when closing the bolt?

Hi dicehorn

Answers in order

.223

Winchester bought from Midwayuk

I did a full resize after every firing

I'm using the lowest loads of 25.0 grains for V-Max 40 grain and 25.5 on 55 grain V-Max as stated on the Lee reloader manual using Varget powder.

There were no loose primer holes or anything else of note that would indicate high pressures. I checked with a paper clip to check for case head separation but did not notice anything out of the ordinary.

The deep scratches and pin prick like holes are all over the case sides (maybe one or two per case). I'm guessing that they are deep as when shone in light they seem deep as its black inside the scratches and pin prick type holes. The scratches are about 2mm. I'm wondering if they could be impact markings from landing on a rock after ejecting from the rifle.Posted Image

The last time I was shooting I did notice maybe about three were hard to push into the chamber when closing the bolt.

thanks for you interest.

cheers Callum

#11 HUnter_zero

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Posted 12 August 2010 - 06:02 am

So you purchased the cases new and have reloaded the cases four times.

I get between six and ten uses from my cases, so four seems a little low.
When you say "pin prick holes / hairline cracks" are you saying that the case wall has been breached or that the cases are marked deeply?
Either way, noting changes if the cases give any cause for concern then in the bin go the cases.
According to Hodgdon's reloading data:
50 GR. SPR SP Hodgdon Varget .224" 2.210" 26.5 [min] 3242 40,800 CUP 27.5C [max]
55 GR. SFIRE Hodgdon Varget .224" 2.220" 23.5 [min] 2990 45,200 PSI 25.1C [max]

John

Edited by HUnter_zero, 12 August 2010 - 06:03 am.


#12 mangy1983

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Posted 12 August 2010 - 04:15 pm

<br>So you purchased the cases new and have reloaded the cases four times.<br><br>I get between six and ten uses from my cases, so four seems a little low.<br>When you say "pin prick holes / hairline cracks" are you saying that the case wall has been breached or that the cases are marked deeply?<br>Either way, noting changes if the cases give any cause for concern then in the bin go the cases.<br>According to Hodgdon's reloading data:<br>50 GR. SPR SP&nbsp;&nbsp;Hodgdon&nbsp;&nbsp;Varget&nbsp;&nbsp;.224"&nbsp;&nbsp;2.210"&nbsp;&nbsp;26.5 [min] 3242&nbsp;&nbsp;40,800 CUP&nbsp;&nbsp;27.5C [max]<br>55 GR. SFIRE&nbsp;&nbsp;Hodgdon&nbsp;&nbsp;Varget&nbsp;&nbsp;.224"&nbsp;&nbsp;2.220"&nbsp;&nbsp;23.5 [min]&nbsp;&nbsp;2990&nbsp;&nbsp;45,200 PSI&nbsp;&nbsp;25.1C [max]<br><br>John<br>


Hi John
I would say that the cases are marked deeply as l have done quite a lot of Googling on this topic and none of the examples l found match what l have. I'm wandering if they maybe pit marks from a dirty chamber possibly?

When I get my next hundred brass cases I'm definitely going to keep my eyes open as I am going through the reloading process to see if I can figure out exactly on which step this is happening on. At 2mm in length they seem a bit on the small side to be like a case head separation or neck splitting so am wondering as well if they could be just marks gained after ejection from the rifle through landing on a rock which is another possibility.

thanks for your interest

cheers Callum

Edited by mangy1983, 12 August 2010 - 04:18 pm.


#13 dicehorn

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Posted 12 August 2010 - 06:57 pm



I've been reloading for a few weeks and l am sorting out my cases for their fourth reload. Trouble is out of the 50 odd l checked only 17 in my view are good enough for further reloading. I have noticed a lot of pin prick holes and deep scratches / hairline cracks in them (can you tell the difference?). My question is how strict are you when deciding whether to continue using a brass case and what do you look for.

cheers Callum


The advice above is sensible.

Your problem could be duplicated when you take on a new lot of brass as I very much doubt you originally bought a duff 100 cases.

Noting that you have not been reloading long - can I ask some questions.

What calibre are you reloading?
What brass were you using?
After fire forming did you just neck size for the next two firings?
After firing the brass for the first time, did you check to see if there were any apparrent pressure signs to these cases?
When you say pin prick holes do you actually mean the case has a hole going right through into the chamber of the case?

Where are the deep scratches on the case - are they roughly in the same place on each case - say 5mm long going from the shoulder to the headstamp?
After you had fireformed the cases and reloaded them, how did they cycle - easily or did they require a bit of effort when closing the bolt?

Hi dicehorn

Answers in order

.223

Winchester bought from Midwayuk

I did a full resize after every firing

I'm using the lowest loads of 25.0 grains for V-Max 40 grain and 25.5 on 55 grain V-Max as stated on the Lee reloader manual using Varget powder.

There were no loose primer holes or anything else of note that would indicate high pressures. I checked with a paper clip to check for case head separation but did not notice anything out of the ordinary.

The deep scratches and pin prick like holes are all over the case sides (maybe one or two per case). I'm guessing that they are deep as when shone in light they seem deep as its black inside the scratches and pin prick type holes. The scratches are about 2mm. I'm wondering if they could be impact markings from landing on a rock after ejecting from the rifle.http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/pub...

The last time I was shooting I did notice maybe about three were hard to push into the chamber when closing the bolt.

thanks for you interest.

cheers Callum

Your 223 - new or second hand??

If you are full length resizing each time and are getting the odd case becoming hard to cycle, this could be one of two things. You have not set your die up correctly or (if new ) your chamber has the odd rough edge/burr. If second hand there may be a build up of carbon in the chamber or rust spots that can cause the damage you are experiencing.

To give you an idea of what I am meaning, the other day after cleaning my rifle, and afterwards taking a quick look down the bore to ensure all was well, fired a shot, upon extracting the case I noticed that somehow I had left one strand od a cotton patch at the top of the chamber, when I removed it from the case, it left quite a deep imprint in the case. Point I am making is that you don't need much of an obstruction in your chamber so cause noticible damage.

From what I can see (I dont shoot 223) your powder weight for the 40 & 55 gr heads is not an issue and after 3/4 loadings case separation would not also be an issue. Forgive me but I may have read somewhere that you can get .223 cases and also 5. something mm (Nato) which react differently in .223 chambers (someone help me here!!) - you have not got the Nato cases by any chance??

Go ahead and get new brass, make up no more than 10 rounds. Give the chamber a good scrub with a chamber brush. After firing them, make sure you eject them carefully with your hand as a stop - examine the cases to see if the problem is ongoing.


My money is on your chamber with die set up as a further contender Have a look at the cases after full sizing also, as certain dies can also be rough on the inside.

I know you are full sizing only but at worse you should get at least 6 reloads before you may see the odd neck splits. Like many others on here neck sizing is the way to go as it prolongs the life of the case - some of my Remmington cases (22.250)are on their 17th reload which is not exceptional by any means.

#14 matt_hooks

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Posted 12 August 2010 - 07:30 pm

Forgive me but I may have read somewhere that you can get .223 cases and also 5. something mm (Nato) which react differently in .223 chambers (someone help me here!!) - you have not got the Nato cases by any chance??


5.56 dice, and they "should" in theory work ok in a .223 chamber, very slightly different shoulder profile but should still work fine.

The case deforms a fair bit on firing, so if there is some kind of foreign object in the breech, or even some minor damage, it will be deeply impressed into the case. Damage would tend to do the same to every case, so possibly a bit of muck has found it's way in there?

#15 mangy1983

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Posted 12 August 2010 - 08:29 pm

Hi guys
I'm going to clean my rifle chamber and my resizing die.
I'm using the Lee lubricant but I am going to switch over to a lubricant oil as l think this would be easier to clean.
The way used prepared my reloads the first time was l put them into a case tumbler to get them cleaned up after first firing.
I then lubed them up and resized them before cleaning them again in the case tumbler. After they came out of the resizing die had a black sticky greasy type substance on them so l do think l should have wiped them before l put them back into the case tumbler which stuck even more gunk on them. The next two times after this l followed the same process but my girlfriend cleaned them as best she could with a wet cloth before they were put back into the case tumbler.

I'm just wondering if dezincification could have occurred as well.

thanks for the advice guys.

cheers Callum


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