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What and how do you clean a CF properly?


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I use Forrest Bore foam and Hoppes BR no9.

 

http://www.precisionrifles.com/Cleaning%20Procedures.htm

 

http://www.6mmbr.com/borecleaning.html

 

http://www.gunnersden.com/index.htm.rifle-bore-cleaning.html

 

I am sorely tempted, when next having to buy cleaning equipment for my rifle, to try the Wipe-Out foam.

 

I know two gunsmiths who do a lot of work in the trade, both of whom tell me that the major cause of having to have a rifle re-barreled is poor cleaning, followed by not removing the moderator when storing your rifle.

 

ft

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Never cleaned my 243 having just read another thread i feel its time i did, what do i need and what do i do? Sorry for the obvious questions but have never used copper solvents etc. Thanks

 

you need a good rod a bore guide is a must imo. and you need a jag speer type is best not the rap around ones.

some patches and i use carbon remover and copper remover from the kg range of cleaning stuff. very good indeed

 

a mate of mine put me onto it and its so easy and great results

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first things first get yourself a good bore guide....

 

your gonna have to sweat to get it clean,

 

As above get the spear type jag, and a few quality bronze brushes...

 

Now As you have never cleaned your gun the copper and carbon will be layered, so when you think your barrel is clean you'll need to repeat the process to make sure...

 

NOW....

 

with the bronze brush attached to your rod, spray WD40 onto it and give the barrel a good scrubing say 30 passes...

 

Now pass a dry patch through it and see the crap that comes out...!!!!!

 

Again change over to the bronze brush, and spray on WD40 make a few passes and leave to soak for 5 mins....

 

and give it another good scrubing...

 

put a dry patch through again... a few times changing the patch each pass.....

 

this should have most of the crud removed..

 

 

now the powder solvents,

 

hoppes no 9 solvent, or other quality solvet, kg1, youngs 303, etc....

 

place the solvent on a clean patch and proceed to push through the barrel slowly,

 

change the patch and repeat... making a few passes....

 

now pass a heavily soaked patch through and leave to sit for about 4, or 5 mins....

 

now with dry patches make a pass and change the patch until they come out clean...or as near as you can get....

 

 

now the copper.....

 

forrest bore foam, or shooters choice, contain ammonia and you will see a blue tinge if copper is present when these 2 are used...

 

kg12 is also good but you wont see the copper as it has no ammonia..

 

soak a clean patch and make a slow pass, repeat this process

 

still with me....lol

 

 

leave to soak in the bore for around 20 mins

 

and pass clean patches through until clean...

 

 

this process will have to be repeated, as you have to strip each layer off,

 

people will say use bore paste but its very abrasive and if you've never clean your gun before chances are you'd clean the rifling out to with this stuff...

 

so i dont recommend it for you...

 

 

it'll take some time and elbow grease but good luck...

 

 

 

hope this helps

 

 

 

Snap.

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first things first get yourself a good bore guide....

 

your gonna have to sweat to get it clean,

 

As above get the spear type jag, and a few quality bronze brushes...

 

Now As you have never cleaned your gun the copper and carbon will be layered, so when you think your barrel is clean you'll need to repeat the process to make sure...

 

NOW....

 

with the bronze brush attached to your rod, spray WD40 onto it and give the barrel a good scrubing say 30 passes...

 

Now pass a dry patch through it and see the crap that comes out...!!!!!

 

Again change over to the bronze brush, and spray on WD40 make a few passes and leave to soak for 5 mins....

 

and give it another good scrubing...

 

put a dry patch through again... a few times changing the patch each pass.....

 

this should have most of the crud removed..

 

 

now the powder solvents,

 

hoppes no 9 solvent, or other quality solvet, kg1, youngs 303, etc....

 

place the solvent on a clean patch and proceed to push through the barrel slowly,

 

change the patch and repeat... making a few passes....

 

now pass a heavily soaked patch through and leave to sit for about 4, or 5 mins....

 

now with dry patches make a pass and change the patch until they come out clean...or as near as you can get....

 

 

now the copper.....

 

forrest bore foam, or shooters choice, contain ammonia and you will see a blue tinge if copper is present when these 2 are used...

 

kg12 is also good but you wont see the copper as it has no ammonia..

 

soak a clean patch and make a slow pass, repeat this process

 

still with me....lol

 

 

leave to soak in the bore for around 20 mins

 

and pass clean patches through until clean...

 

 

this process will have to be repeated, as you have to strip each layer off,

 

people will say use bore paste but its very abrasive and if you've never clean your gun before chances are you'd clean the rifling out to with this stuff...

 

so i dont recommend it for you...

 

 

it'll take some time and elbow grease but good luck...

 

 

 

hope this helps

 

 

 

Snap.

hi snap wats the boresnake like for cleaning i was always told to dry clean ur rifle
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Steer clear of the jags that look like a rasp, as Jamie says get the speer (bench rest) type.

 

I use the Spear Pro Shot jags and have used them for over 20 years.

 

Snap's cleaning guide is good, so in the interests of variety, here is mine.

 

Now, assuming you are using a bore guide and a quality rod (such as a Dewey)and good patches like Pro Shot - forget the Tetra ones they use inferior cloth.

 

Normal Cleaning:

 

1) Soak a patch with Shooters Choice MC7 - Push it through the bore

2) Repeat above

3) Wet a Phosphor Bronze or nylon brush for your calibre with MC7 and push right through the bore, so that the brush exits the barrel at the crown, then return it through the bore exiting the breech.

 

Wet it again and repeat the process

 

Pass the brush through the bore ten times wetting occasionally... Go onto the forums for about 20 minutes

4) Dry patch the bore

5) Pass 3 wetted patches with MC7 through the bore

6) Pass dry patches through the bore. If the patches are dirty, repeat the

above from (1).

 

Store the rifle by patching Mineral oil through the barrel + rag in breech

 

When you intend to use the rifle,

 

Wet patch with Kano Kroil (if you have never heard of this - do a Google search)and pass through the bore 3 times. Dry the bore then put two drops of Kroil on a patch and pass through the bore then pass one dry patch through.

 

This is now ready to use and should give 1st round accuracy!!!

 

Now - the dreaded carbon build up - bear in mind the above ( and 99% of other's cleaning regime will not remove carbon).

 

Many people have a fear of using a paste on the basis that it can do more harm than good. True it can be harmful to the bore in the hands of someone who does not pay attention to detail. The following procedure I use approx every 50 - 70 rounds fired through the rifle:

 

JB Compound is an abrasive mechanical cleaner. Care is to be taken when using this product in that one must not push the patches completely through the bore. i.e. do not exit the crown, as the abrasive action can polish the edge of

the crown giving a radius instead of a sharp edge to the crown.

 

 

 

INSTRUCTIONS ARE ON THE POT. But what you do is smear JB Paste on a patch and push into the bore with a scrubbing action in short strokes working predominantly in the throat area and progressively moving towards the

crown with longer strokes, but make sure that the patch does not exit the crown.

Pull the patch out from the chamber, apply a new patch with JB Paste and repeat the above. Do this 3 or 4 times. To remove any surplus paste from the bore, repeat with MC7 on a patch then dry the bore with clean patches. DO NOT USE A PHOSPHOR BRUSH IMMEDIATELY AFTER USING THE J.B.COMPOUND.

 

I have used the paste on my rifles for over 10 years and all rifles group better than most other peoples.

Edited by dicehorn
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first things first get yourself a good bore guide....

 

your gonna have to sweat to get it clean,

 

As above get the spear type jag, and a few quality bronze brushes...

 

Now As you have never cleaned your gun the copper and carbon will be layered, so when you think your barrel is clean you'll need to repeat the process to make sure...

 

NOW....

 

with the bronze brush attached to your rod, spray WD40 onto it and give the barrel a good scrubing say 30 passes...

 

Now pass a dry patch through it and see the crap that comes out...!!!!!

 

Again change over to the bronze brush, and spray on WD40 make a few passes and leave to soak for 5 mins....

 

and give it another good scrubing...

 

put a dry patch through again... a few times changing the patch each pass.....

 

this should have most of the crud removed..

 

 

now the powder solvents,

 

hoppes no 9 solvent, or other quality solvet, kg1, youngs 303, etc....

 

place the solvent on a clean patch and proceed to push through the barrel slowly,

 

change the patch and repeat... making a few passes....

 

now pass a heavily soaked patch through and leave to sit for about 4, or 5 mins....

 

now with dry patches make a pass and change the patch until they come out clean...or as near as you can get....

 

 

now the copper.....

 

forrest bore foam, or shooters choice, contain ammonia and you will see a blue tinge if copper is present when these 2 are used...

 

kg12 is also good but you wont see the copper as it has no ammonia..

 

soak a clean patch and make a slow pass, repeat this process

 

still with me....lol

 

 

leave to soak in the bore for around 20 mins

 

and pass clean patches through until clean...

 

 

this process will have to be repeated, as you have to strip each layer off,

 

people will say use bore paste but its very abrasive and if you've never clean your gun before chances are you'd clean the rifling out to with this stuff...

 

so i dont recommend it for you...

 

 

it'll take some time and elbow grease but good luck...

 

 

 

hope this helps

 

 

 

Snap.

hi snap wats the boresnake like for cleaning i was always told to dry clean ur rifle

 

 

Boresnake's were designed by the military for a quick clean in the field, and not intended as a full cleaning routine...

 

Ask you mate what does he do about the moisture in the barrel from the air..!!! pitting will occur if you don't coat the barrel in a light oil, over time..

 

A fella i know who has a fairly new rifle 22-250 was shocked to see his barrel with a bore scope recently.... there was a major carbon build up

 

until half way up the barrel... not to mention the layers of copper !!!!!!!! he only thought he was cleaning it......lol

 

his rounds opened up for the first 10-15 shots after cleaning only slightly then he shot better than he ever did....

 

bottom line is clean your guns .....

 

Snap.

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I use Forrest Bore foam and Hoppes BR no9.

 

http://www.precisionrifles.com/Cleaning%20Procedures.htm

 

http://www.6mmbr.com/borecleaning.html

 

http://www.gunnersden.com/index.htm.rifle-bore-cleaning.html

 

I am sorely tempted, when next having to buy cleaning equipment for my rifle, to try the Wipe-Out foam.

 

I know two gunsmiths who do a lot of work in the trade, both of whom tell me that the major cause of having to have a rifle re-barreled is poor cleaning, followed by not removing the moderator when storing your rifle.

 

ft

 

 

You now know a third. I and most of the gun trade love people who do not keep their rifles clean. keeps me in work.

 

 

I note you are tempted to use Wipe out foam very good but large quantities of amona do not leave in barrel to long as can craze. my advice would be elbow grease and JB compound.Regards Sage uk gunrepairs.

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