mealiejimmy

If the Tikka is coming to you with bases and 1" rings, then you only need to buy 30mm Tikka rings. The height of the rings will depend on the soze of the scope objective lens You won't need new bases (although you will have to take them off to remove the existing 1" rings and fit the new 30mm rings) Cheers Bruce

It will do the job OK, but it will be heavy compared to Lipos. Cheers Bruce

There are heaps of these on E bay, this is just an example: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Power-New-DC-12V-Portable-9800mAh-Li-ion-Super-Rechargeable-Battery-Pack-/280877919259?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item4165a0ec1b 9800mah is the biggest capacity I've seen and I recommend that's what you buy. The actual capacity will be a lot less (they always lie about this) so if you buy one of the cheaper, smaller capacity batteries it won't last long. I don't know how much current the NS200 draws from the battery, but in my home brew NV which draws about 600mA with evertyhing

Riflescopes have a couple of things which affect how well you can see through them. One is "eye relief" - this is the distance from the back of the scope at which the image will be in focus. This is typically 2-4 inches depending on the scope and the magnification it's set to. Your eye needs to be at or very close to this distance to get a clear picture. Adjusting the position of the scope on the gun or adjusting the stock might be needed to put your eye in the correct position Another is "exit pupil" - this is the diameter in mm of the focused image at the eye relief distance. Exi

Agreed Sold my Ruger after becoming frustrated that it would not reliably feed subsonic ammunition. Traded it for a CZ452 and couldn't be happier Cheers Bruce

Agreed,

I'll shortly be applying for a variation to aquire a rifle to shoot fox and roe deer (I'm in Scotland) but I'm not sure what the best calibre and bullet type/weight would be. I'm thinking about 223, but not sure if some of the similar sized calibers (22-250 etc) might be better. All constructive comments welcomed. Cheers Bruce

Here are some pics of an IR LED unit I made recently. It uses an Osram Ostar IR LED, a B&Q "maglite" torch head, a 50mm aspheric lens. The LED is mounted to a machined aluminium heatsink which is threaded to take the torch head and allows the beam from the LED to be focused simply by turning the torch head so that it moves forwards and backwards relative to the LED. The LED is powered from a 12volt battery via an LED driver. The LED and driver were bought from Farnell (part nos 1827022 and 1961529 respectively) The driver can also be used as a dimmer One of the pics shows an earlier

I think it's the other way around because Lardy (and others) have had home made high power LED IR illuminators for some time now. Having said that, full marks to the OP for giving the details of the parts used and where to find them. To finish it off you need to put it in a "maglite" style torch head (B&Q "maglite" £13.50) with a 50mm aspheric lens from Ant Supplies (£6.00). Then, (if the cheapo chinese IR LED specified actually works properly) you should be able to illuminate targets out to around 200 yards Cheers Bruce

Been using the 300 on a hombrew digital NV setup for the last couple of weeks. Gun is a Voere semi auto 22 with a simmons 4-12 x 50 AO scope. Shot 20 rabbits on my last outing at ranges between 40 and yards. The 300 provides plenty of illumination at these ranges and can illuminate a lot further if needed. My only reservation about the 300 is that the beam is "dirty" - lots of artifacts - dots and spots etc which move around as you adjust the laser from flood to spot. However, the bunnies don't seem to notice the laser beam even when it's focussed tightly on a single bunny. Everything I'v

+1 on the Nikon I have a Monarch on my 22 CZ and it's absolutely excellent. I think a new Prostaff is the best scope out there for less than £200 Don't waste money on illuminated reticles, spend it on better glass

If you want to make the lamp brighter you'll need to increase the battery voltage, but you then shorten the life of the bulb and make the whole lamp run much hotter. Most 12 volt bulbs won't handle more than about 14 volts for very long before blowing Cheers Bruce

Thanks for all the replies and in particular to Matt_Hooks - you've managed to put my mind at rest. You're right about the Voere, I've had it for about 25 years now and has given me no problems whatsoever. I use 40gr Winchester subs and since I started using them it's never failed to cycle correctly. I got really lucky today when a friend of a friend heard I was asking about shortening the Voere. He called me to tell me he had 3 magazines, a complete trigger assembly, bolt and firing pin and only wanted £45 for the lot. After biting his arm off I got the bits home and replaced the trigger

Hi all, Been lurking for a while but have finally decided to register. I have an old Voere model 2115 semi auto with a 16 1/2" barrel which I'm thinking about having shortened to 13" make it easier to use from a vehicle. I've read plenty of posts on here and other forums that all the powder in a 22 cartridge is burned within the first 10" of the barrel, so 13" should be OK for velocity. However when I was discussing this with a much more knowlegable shooter than me, he said that shortening the barrel would mean a loss in accuracy because the reduction of the total twist in the barrel